In the heart of La Paz, Bolivia, sits a city block that defies every international standard of corrections. San Pedro Prison (Penal de San Pedro) isn't just a place of incarceration; it is a self-governing society where inmates hold the keys, families live alongside convicts, and every square inch of space comes with a price tag.
A Prison With No Guards
The most shocking aspect of San Pedro is what you won't see inside the walls: police officers. While the outer perimeter is heavily guarded by the Bolivian National Police to prevent escapes, the interior is entirely managed by the inmates.
There is an elected "Council of Representatives" for each section of the prison. This internal government manages everything from maintenance and sanitation to the resolution of disputes. It is a fragile democracy where the rule of law is dictated by those the law originally cast out.
The Real Estate of Incarceration
In San Pedro, you don't just "get" a cell; you buy or rent one. The prison is divided into eight sections, ranging from the squalid, overcrowded "Alcatraz" to the "La Posta" section, where wealthy inmates live in luxury suites with private bathrooms, cable TV, and kitchens.
Prices for a cell can range from a few hundred to several thousand dollars. If a prisoner cannot afford a cell, they are forced to sleep in the corridors or in the church, often in dangerous conditions. This has created a vibrant, albeit dark, internal economy where inmates work as barbers, cooks, and حتی shopkeepers to pay their "living expenses."
5 Shocking Facts About Life in San Pedro
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Family Life: In a move that stuns human rights observers, hundreds of women and children live inside the prison with their incarcerated husbands/fathers. The belief is that keeping the family unit together reduces recidivism, but it exposes children to a brutal criminal environment.
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The Tourism Trade: For years, San Pedro was famous for illegal "backdoor" tours. Tourists would pay guards and inmates to enter the facility, often prompted by the bestselling book Marching Powder. While authorities claim to have ended the practice, it remains a legendary part of the prison's history.
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Internal Industry: The prison is famous for its production of high-quality cocaine, historically processed in labs hidden within the various sections. This trade has fueled the internal economy and provided the "rent" for many high-ranking inmates.
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No State Funding: The Bolivian government provides almost nothing for the inmates beyond basic (and often inedible) rations. This is why the internal market is so vital; if you don't work or have money from the outside, you don't eat.
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The Boxing Matches: Disputes are often settled in a makeshift boxing ring in the courtyard. These matches are a spectacle for the entire population and serve as a controlled release of the tension inherent in such a crowded space.
A System on the Brink
Human rights organizations and the UN have frequently called for the closure of San Pedro, citing the extreme risk to the children living inside and the lack of state control. However, with Bolivia’s prison system already at nearly 300% capacity, finding a place for the thousands of San Pedro inmates remains a logistical and political nightmare.
Sources
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BBC News: Inside the world's strangest prison – A look at the self-governed economy and family life within San Pedro.
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The Guardian: Bolivia's San Pedro prison: no guards, but plenty of families – Investigative reporting on the internal social structures.
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Inside the World’s Toughest Prisons (Netflix): Bolivia: The Prison City – Documentary footage showing the stark contrast between the different "neighborhoods" inside.
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Marching Powder by Rusty Young: True Story of San Pedro – The definitive book that brought international attention to the prison's corruption and drug trade.
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Al Jazeera: The children of San Pedro – A harrowing look at the lives of the minors growing up behind bars in La Paz.
